Idea in Brief

The Problem

Despite early success, many direct-to-consumer brands have struggled as they’ve grown.

The Cause

Intense competition from incumbents has eliminated the advantages of being an early mover on digital media. And shortcuts taken to bring the brands’ products to market later complicated their progress.

The Solution

As successful DTC brands mature, they should be very careful about aligning themselves with large e-commerce platforms or making product extensions. Above all, they must maintain an intense focus on customer loyalty.

Emily Weiss’s personal blog was never supposed to become a $1 billion brand. The 24-year-old Condé Nast assistant considered Into the Gloss a hobby, a stage for her personal beauty recommendations for fellow Millennials. The blog, which she started in 2010, featured how-to tips, daily routines, and information typical of beauty publications. By 2014 it was attracting more than 10 million page views a month. Using Into the Gloss as a springboard, Weiss founded Glossier, a direct-to-consumer (DTC) line of beauty products. By providing both recommendations and home delivery of the products they featured, Glossier disrupted the traditional two-step distribution chain, in which a customer might receive advice from a department-store beauty consultant and then buy a product from the shelf. Endorsed by Kim Kardashian, and with product waiting lists that have been more than 10,000 customers long, Glossier has surpassed $100 million in annual revenue and has been valued at more than $1 billion.

A version of this article appeared in the November–December 2021 issue of Harvard Business Review.